There is a particular pleasure in doing things that have long been awaited. Two years ago, I went to Guangzhou and stayed at the riverside hotel. I arrived late by the fast train from Changsha, starving. I bought boiled peanuts outside FangCun metro station – little aware that on the way to the youth hostel, I would find a street lined with barbecue restaurants, and groups of peope happily feasting on seafood. I was poor then, and ate my peanuts and a cup of milk tea by the water.

Eating at one of those restaurants remained a fantasy which I fulfilling tonight – a vegetarian feast of eggplant, mushrooms and green chilies. And by this experience, I further establish this part of Guangzhou as one of my happy places.

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